tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-54686641363115088622024-03-13T14:13:13.100-04:00Roz's LoftROZ'S LOFT: Join me as I try new techniques and learn more about my machine and hand knitting hobby as well as living a new life in northern lower Michigan. Always an adventure!Rozhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00623839828688286746noreply@blogger.comBlogger184125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5468664136311508862.post-86585690721290497212016-04-14T09:14:00.003-04:002016-04-26T10:56:19.820-04:00MK Cotton Washcloths & Cast On Rag<h3 class="post-title entry-title" itemprop="name" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-weight: normal; margin: 0px; position: relative;">
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_uLW1XSG2Izc/TOLyoEirrvI/AAAAAAAABNE/Ad6d--03Oow/s1600/washcloths.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; color: #6699cc; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-decoration: none;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/_uLW1XSG2Izc/TOLyoEirrvI/AAAAAAAABNE/Ad6d--03Oow/s320/washcloths.jpg" style="border: none; position: relative;" width="320" /></a></div>
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These gems are easy to make and you're friends will love you if you make them a dozen for Christmas. Tie a bow around them and give them to everyone.</div>
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Machine: Standard Gauge, I used Brother 970</div>
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Material: 100% cotton, I've found people like the natural color or white so they can bleach them if necessary. Use 1 strand 8/2 cotton or 2 strands 16/2 (available from weaving shops). I usually buy 2 cones rather than try to wind off this thin stuff. It just makes life easier.</div>
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<b>WASHCLOTH DIRECTIONS:</b><br />
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These are knitted using the tuck buttons as well as the slip buttons at the beginning and end of the cloth to create a pattern. <br />
You don't have to change the pattern row count as you push in the different buttons.</div>
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Machine tension loose, I used 8 on my Brother 970 carriage and a medium antenna tension</div>
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Pattern: xoxoxo</div>
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oxoxox (x is tuck (or black), o is plain (or white)</div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.85px; line-height: 1.4;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: 14.85px; line-height: 1.4;">Hang cast on rag on its bound off edge directly on 80 needles. Place weighted bar in the hem. NOTE: You don't have to use a cast on rag but I just find it easy. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: 14.85px; line-height: 1.4;"><br /></span></div>
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If you used a cast on rag, knit across with ravel cord then crochet cast on or e-wrap <span style="font-size: 14.85px; line-height: 20.79px;">cast on with your washcloth cotton. (If these are for me I e-wrap cast on, if I make them to sell or give as a gift I do crochet cast on so that the cast on and bind off look the same).</span></div>
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Set up machine for 1x1 tuck stitch shown above</div>
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Turn on KC button and knit across. Every other needle should be selected.</div>
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Push in both tuck buttons and continue knitting for 17 rows (total 18 rows counting 1st row)</div>
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About this time I add claw weights to each edge to make sure the edge stitches knit off properly.</div>
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Push in slip buttons and continue knitting for 10 rows</div>
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Push in tuck buttons and continue knitting for 162 more rows (total 172 rows)</div>
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Push in slip buttons and continue knitting for 10 rows (Total 182 rows)</div>
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Push in tuck buttons and knit for 17 rows, ending on left. (total 199 rows) </div>
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Turn off KC button and knit 1 row to the right. Latch tool bind off. </div>
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Washcloths will be loosely knit but shrink when washed. </div>
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Wash and dry your washcloths and steam them if you wish fold them and they're ready to give to friends.</div>
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<span class="post-author vcard" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 1em;">Copyright Rosalind Porter, revised 4/14/2016 </span><br />
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<span class="post-labels" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;">Labels: Cotton Washcloths, Patterns,<a href="http://rozspot.blogspot.com/search/label/knitting%20pattern%20cotton%20washcloths" rel="tag" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration: none;"> </a> <a href="http://rozspot.blogspot.com/search/label/machine%20knit" rel="tag" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration: none;">machine knit</a>, <a href="http://rozspot.blogspot.com/search/label/Machine%20Knitting" rel="tag" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration: none;">Machine Knitting</a></span></div>
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Rozhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00623839828688286746noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5468664136311508862.post-5560462972592330412016-03-17T10:57:00.001-04:002016-04-14T09:32:53.768-04:00<div class="WordSection1">
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Recharting a Wider Sweater to Fit On a Knitting Machine</h2>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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A few years ago someone on the Hobby Machine Group asked how she could knit
a sweater she wanted to make when she needed a size 3X and only had 150
needles. I went into Knitware’s
Sweaters 2.5 software and I charted a sweater for a mid-gauge machine with 7
sts, 10 rows per inch. Then I figured out how to turn the whole thing sideways.
<o:p></o:p></div>
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Here’s what I did: <o:p></o:p></div>
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Directions tell us to cast on 206 sts for the front and back
which is impossible on 150 or 200 needles. The sleeve stitches increase from the bottom
ribbing to 125 stitches so that’s do-able.
We’ll leave the sleeves as charted but we have to turn the front and
back pieces sideways. By knitting a sweater
this way, with the sleeves left as they are, we eliminate the “dolman” look and
we have a defined shoulder seam which is slimming.<o:p></o:p></div>
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I’m not going to write the whole pattern out but below the
images will give you an idea how I would convert a Knitware (or any software)
pattern to work on the mid gauge. I looked at "Just My Size" catalog and got the measurements for the 3X size.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Using a paint program I’ve turned the above front and back
pictures sideways. To help me visualize what I’m doing as I calculate the sts and
rows I’ll need. If you don’t have a
paint program, just draw your shapes out on paper. Remember, we have a gauge of 7 sts/10 rows
per inch.<o:p></o:p></div>
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All we have to do is change the stitches to rows and the
rows to stitches to refigure this pattern.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Knitware’s Back: The
directions for the original back tell us:<o:p></o:p></div>
<ol start="1" style="margin-top: 0in;" type="1">
<li class="MsoNormal">Cast
on 206 sts in WY using tension 7 and open end method. Work 5 rows ending COR (carriage on
right)<o:p></o:p></li>
<li class="MsoNormal">RC00
Change to main yarn and stockinette stitch. Work 174 rows. COR<o:p></o:p></li>
<li class="MsoNormal">Armhole
shaping: Cast off 11 sts at
beginning of next 2 rows. COR. Dec 1 st at each end of every alternate
row for 52 rows. Total 228 rows
with 132 sts remaining. Continue
until 270 rows total with 132 sts remaining.<o:p></o:p></li>
<li class="MsoNormal">Shoulder
shaping: Cast off 9 sts at
beginning of next 8 rows. AT THE
SAME TIME, at row 272 start neck shaping<o:p></o:p></li>
<li class="MsoNormal">Shape
neck COR. Thread center 50 sts to
WY. Decrease 1 st at neck edges
every rows 5 times.<o:p></o:p></li>
<li class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></li>
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If we look at the original schematic we see that we need
17.4” from the top of the ribbing to the underarm. Since we are working with 7 sts per inch
(SPI) instead of rows, we need to multiply 17.4 x 7 sts per inch. That works out to 122 sts. This should be a closed cast on but
considering the fact that we are increasing some stitches for armhole we won’t
center it on the bed in the beginning, it will be centered after the armhole
stitches are added. I don’t shortrow, I
like increasing on the right with e-wrapping and decreasing by just putting 2
sts together. All the seams are covered
anyway so what difference does it make?<o:p></o:p></div>
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RC 00: Starting with
waste yarn, ravel cord, Ewrap cast your 122 sts on needles 97 to the left to 27
on the right.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Knit 15 rows.<o:p></o:p></div>
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RC 15: Armhole
shaping:<o:p></o:p></div>
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Increase 2 sts every other row 9 times, then 3 sts 6 times
for a total of 36 sts ending with carriage on the right. K 2 rows then ewrap cast on 33 sts to get us
from the armhole to the shoulder.<o:p></o:p></div>
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I’m not going to tell you how to do the rest of this, I
think you can get the idea from the schematic and directions above. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Here’s the rest of the pattern if you want to try it:<o:p></o:p></div>
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FRONT:<o:p></o:p></div>
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1-2 Follow steps
1 and 2 for back. COR<o:p></o:p></div>
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3. Armhole:
Dec for armhole at both ends, as for back. Continue until 236 rows total with 132 sts
remaining<o:p></o:p></div>
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4. Shape neck.
COR. Thread center 30 sts to WY.
51 sts each side.<o:p></o:p></div>
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5. Right neck: LH needles in HP. Dec 1 st at neck edge every row 15 times
until 36 sts remain. Then work 19
rows even. Total 270 rows.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Shoulder shaping:
cast off as for back<o:p></o:p></div>
<ol start="7" style="margin-top: 0in;" type="1">
<li class="MsoNormal">Left
neck: <st1:state w:st="on">COL</st1:state>,
work as for right neck, reversing shaping.<o:p></o:p></li>
</ol>
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<o:p> </o:p>The neckline is deeper so we need to get out the calculators
once again but other than that, its fairly easy to convert.</div>
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SLEEVES:<o:p></o:p></div>
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Sleeves are knitted as written<o:p></o:p></div>
<ol start="1" style="margin-top: 0in;" type="1">
<li class="MsoNormal">Cast
on 70 sts in WY using tension 7 and open edge method. Work 6 rows ending COR. <o:p></o:p></li>
<li class="MsoNormal">RC00
Change to main yarn and stockinette st.<o:p></o:p></li>
<li class="MsoNormal">Inc 1
st at each end of every 5<sup>th</sup> row 25 times, then every 6<sup>th</sup>
row 3 times to 126 sts (143 rows total).<o:p></o:p></li>
<li class="MsoNormal">Work
even to total 148 rows. COR<o:p></o:p></li>
<li class="MsoNormal">Shape
cap. Cast off 11 sts at beg of next
two rows (104 sts rem). Work 70
rows, while dec 1 st at each end of every 2<sup>nd</sup> row. Total 220 rows. COR.
Cast off remaining 34 sts loosely.<o:p></o:p></li>
</ol>
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Of course you’ll have to figure out some sort of hem or
ribbing after you take the pieces off the machine. . Remember one thing, sideways
knits tend to stretch vertically but there’s not much give horizontally so keep
that in mind, you’ll need to add your ease horizontally.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Copyright 2006 by Rosalind Porter, Traverse City, MI<o:p></o:p></div>
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Rozhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00623839828688286746noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5468664136311508862.post-9103185823097104792015-07-02T12:53:00.002-04:002016-04-14T09:31:00.791-04:00Crib Size Baby Blanket<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<b>Baby Cabled Crib Blanket</b><o:p></o:p></div>
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My granddaughter is having her third baby, a girl very soon
and I have been knitting a blanket for her but decided, since she lives in
Washington State and the baby is due in July she really doesn’t need a knitted
blanket so I am making her a crib
blanket that she can use this fall/winter.
I started by making a couple squares from the knittingmachinestwo group
files that consists of a bunch of squares that some of us contributed a few
years ago but my third square was one I designed and as I knitted it I came up
with the idea that the whole blanket should be squares made with this pattern
so this is what I came up with. Three
panels, each panel consisted of 2 sets of squares wide repeated 10 times. I fiddled around with edging for a week
until I came up with the final idea. I
wanted the edge to be two colors so I twisted the colors together and did the
Worm Trim. Here’s the picture of the </div>
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finished blanket and edge which explains it better than I can tell you. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3fX0FejY9Mc/VZVnpYYHfhI/AAAAAAAAB3E/MBs6anZUR2I/s1600/baby%2Bblanket.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="197" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3fX0FejY9Mc/VZVnpYYHfhI/AAAAAAAAB3E/MBs6anZUR2I/s320/baby%2Bblanket.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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UPDATE (7/17): Baby was born before I sent the blanket but I just received a picture of her wrapped up in it and had to share, I think she likes it, she's smiling...<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-R0hCMg7X_V8/VajWN_YbvWI/AAAAAAAAB3s/9jJ9JJ2Om6g/s1600/Mila.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-R0hCMg7X_V8/VajWN_YbvWI/AAAAAAAAB3s/9jJ9JJ2Om6g/s320/Mila.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Pattern:<o:p></o:p></div>
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Machine: Standard Gauge Brother 970<o:p></o:p></div>
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Tension 7<o:p></o:p></div>
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Yarn and Abbreviations: Pick 2 colors Main Color (MC),
Contrast Color (CC), Upper Working
Position (UWP), COR Carriage on Right<o:p></o:p></div>
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Carriage Tension 7 <br />
According to the National Bureau of Standards, a crib blanket measures Crib: 27x52 inches Mine was very close to those measurements.<br />
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To make a
tension swatch or just try the pattern: Cast on with waste yarn, 50 stitches and knit a few rows. Thread up your 2 colors in your antennas. Now start with 1 of your 2 colors and knit 2
rows ending COR* Put Carriage in hold and put stitches left of 0 in hold. With
MC knit 6 rows on right side stitches. Put right side stitches in hold and push
left side stitches to UWP – which is where the latches just touch the stitch on
the needle (D on Brother machine, C on Studio LK 150) **With CC 2 knit 6 rows
on left side of the bed. **How to knit across stitches in hold: With carriage
on the right of the needles in hold bring tail of new yarn across the Hold
needles and drop it down between the needles in hold and the needles in Work. Knit first row slowly until
the first couple stitches are knitted. That’s all there is to it. Twist a 6
stitch cable using stitches # 123 (1 color)on the right and -123 (2<sup>nd</sup>
color) on the left (always move stitches in the same direction).* Continue from
* to * 2 or 3 times and then knit 2 rows MC, knit a few rows waste yarn and
take off machine. This is your swatch, pull it horizontally and vertically and
then let it rest overnight. <o:p></o:p></div>
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NOTE: You don’t have to make a swatch if you don’t care
how the blanket measures when you’re<o:p></o:p></div>
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finished. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Now start your blanket. It can be as long as you want it to be of
course. To finish the blanket I used
the “Easy Cable Join for machine knitting from
Diana Sullivan’s YouTube which is sort of a sew as you go join. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aS5xDXwjRRY </div>
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I knitted the Worm Trim below but to make the edging 2 colors I twisted the 2 colors together with my twisting table and wound them into a ball before knitting.</div>
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NOTE: The worm trim came out a bit tight, I did increase my tension from 7 to 8 but it was still a little tight so I pinned it out and steamed it when finished knitting. </div>
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Worm Trim<o:p></o:p></div>
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Ewrap 4 stitches and put 4 stitches from the edge of the
blanket over the e-wrapped stitches.<o:p></o:p></div>
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With right part button pushed In knit 8 rows<o:p></o:p></div>
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Pick up the next 4 stitches and knit 8 rows<o:p></o:p></div>
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Continue to the corner. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MePA0azDIUU/VZVnrevS-XI/AAAAAAAAB3M/nUrI-P9wAGk/s1600/baby%2Bblanket%2Bcloseup.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="172" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MePA0azDIUU/VZVnrevS-XI/AAAAAAAAB3M/nUrI-P9wAGk/s200/baby%2Bblanket%2Bcloseup.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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Copyright, <o:p></o:p>Rosalind Porter, 2015</div>
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<span style="text-align: center;">Feel free to share this blanket pattern with your
friends, but don’t claim its yours.</span></div>
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ps Baby was born just before I finished this, my 6th great grandbaby<br />
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Rozhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00623839828688286746noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5468664136311508862.post-18940859469504563252015-02-08T08:40:00.000-05:002016-04-14T09:35:38.472-04:00 Jan Burch -Two Woven Placemat Patterns<h2>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6lBFpfF6pJo/VN5Qg4IXoEI/AAAAAAAABzA/EMSRo0XHC4Y/s1600/final%2Bplacemat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="190" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6lBFpfF6pJo/VN5Qg4IXoEI/AAAAAAAABzA/EMSRo0XHC4Y/s1600/final%2Bplacemat.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Photo shows the hexigon placemat I knitted with Jan's pattern & another use for Jan's placemat<br />
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<b> I recently received all of Jan Burch's patterns. You may remember Jan as one of the people who constantly helped people on this group and earlier groups such as CompuServe and others. Very recently Jan fought and lost the battle of Lung Cancer but before she passed away I called her and offered to sell her remaining patterns with the option of sending all money received from the sale of Jan's patterns to the American Lung Association. Jan, her husband and children all agreed this was the perfect legacy for Jan. </b><br />
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<b>Jan had a pattern for woven placemats, written for a Toyota Punchcard Machine but you can knit weave it on any machine as far.. The first placemat is a rectangle which she states should be at least 19 X 13 inches and if you add a fringe will be increased by 1 inch on each side. The second placemat in the pattern is a hexagon, she did not add a fringe to it however she states it also should measure 19 x 13 inches. </b><br />
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<b>Jan's pattern call</b><b>s</b><b> for Tamm 3 ply or Yarn Country 2/12 for the background yarn and worsted weight yarn for the weaving yarn but honestly you can use anything you like when you weave as we all know. Just make sure the yarn won't shrink or matt up when you wash it. </b></div>
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<b>I have scanned Jan's 2 placemat patterns into a 2 page PDF and will sell it as I did the poncho via email after a payment from PayPal. </b><br />
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<b>If you would like to purchase the Placemat Patterns please send me $3.00 via Pay Pal to my email address: </b><a href="mailto:rozporter1@gmail.com"><b><u>rozporter1@gmail.com</u></b></a><b> and I will email you the patterns. </b><b>Remember, all proceeds will go to the American Lung Association in her honor. We have donated $400 already to them in Jan's name with a beautiful card sent to her family. I'll do the same with this pattern.</b></div>
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Rozhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00623839828688286746noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5468664136311508862.post-87557161519397556742014-11-01T08:00:00.000-04:002015-02-03T14:20:20.289-05:00Jan Burch's Poncho PatternI'm presently helping my dear friend, Jan Burch. Jan has been fighting lung cancer for a few years and is presently under the care of Hospice. <br />
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I called Jan and told her that I mentioned her knitweave poncho pattern on the knittingmachines group and people were interested in it. She replied that she didn't know what to do with her patterns and I suggested that she could send it to me and I would sell it for her, after all this one isn't going to go out of style any time soon. One of the reasons people like Jan's pattern is because it has sleeves. I know a poncho doesn't have sleeves as a general rule but Jan added sleeves under the cape section of the poncho which gives the clever effect of a sweater under the poncho. <br />
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I further added a ribbed cowl neck to mine under the woven neck that Jan designed, not because I'm a clever designer but because I charted my Jan Burch poncho with DesignaKnit using the schematics that she included with the pattern. Unfortunately I got the neckline a little large and so added the cowl under the woven section to keep my neck warm. I know, there's a scarf in the pattern as well but when I'm driving around and buzzing around town I sometimes would prefer to go without a scarf although this one is pretty darned nice because it matches the poncho.<br />
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I'm selling Jan's poncho for $9 using Pay Pal which makes it easy for all of us and once I receive a note from Pay Pal that you have sent me $9 I will quickly email you a PDF pattern file which also includes a couple pages of notes Jan wrote on one of the knitting machine groups.<br />
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The pattern is written for a standard machine and as I said, is knitwoven. You can pretty much use any knitweave pattern you want, I chose the 1x1 which is the simplest and doesn't have any floats that get caught in the car keys (my thoughts anyway). <br />
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You can make this on the standard machine as written or you can use the schematics and your own personal knit gauge and make it on the bulky machine or mid gauge machine. My poncho was made on the Brother 965i and I used MaryLou's Symphony (no longer available) which is a bit heavy and wove it with a discontinued worsted weight yarn from Cascade. I wish that Cascade yarn was still available, it was beautiful. When I make the next one I think I'll use Tamm Trenzi for the background yarn and I haven't chosen the weaving yarn yet but I know I want something that won't fuzz when worn and I might go again with a variegated yarn. <br />
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Below is a picture of Jan's poncho and below that a picture of my finished poncho.<br />
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Remember, Pay Pal, $9. When I receive a notice from Pay Pal I'll get the pattern to you. I hope you love this poncho as much as I do. (ps this was the first woven pattern I made on my knitting machine and I found it easy to follow). All money received from the sale of Jan's patterns will go straight to the American Lung Association in Jan Burch's name. Both Jan and her husband agreed this was a great way to handle it. </div>
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My email address and PayPal address is <a href="mailto:rozporter1@gmail.com">rozporter1@gmail.com</a></div>
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Rozhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00623839828688286746noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5468664136311508862.post-3327980554321499102012-11-01T07:23:00.001-04:002016-04-14T09:36:14.920-04:00My 2012 Winter Hat ProjectI decided to try out some different ideas for a hat while I made some hats to send to the Grand Rapids Machine Knitting Club for their Winter Hat project. Then I bought myself a new jacket for winter (purple) and of course didn't have a matching hat so I had to get some purple yarn to match the jacket and make a hat for myself while I was in the hat mode.<br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">The first hat <span style="font-family: inherit;">(the one on top was woven with a </span>boucle yarn and I wondered if it would even work as a weaving yarn, I had to double it but I loved the results. The second hat used the same pattern only I wanted a wider band, this is the purple to match my coat. Both hats have a flat crocheted flower on top with a tiny pompom on top of the flat flower to hide the hole at the top. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"> Beware, when you get the hat off the machine you're going to think it won't fit. Here's a picture of the purple woven hat fresh off the machine. Have faith, it stretches when you put it on your head.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">You can try out different techniques with this pattern. You could put a fairisle band instead of weaving or leave the band off altogether or even slip stitch a few rows or tuck or not tuck. My head measures 21 inches, the hat is only 19 inches around but that's because I live in cold country and need a hat that keeps my head warm when I walk the dog so I like it snug. <span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">If you want to rechart yours to
make it wider, just measure your head and cast on enough stitches to make you
happy.</span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span> Since there's no shaping until you get to the very top, you could rechart it for the standard gauge machine with a different yarn or even the bulky machine. Another note before you start, I have just discovered this yarn. Its soft acrylic and knits nicely on the LK 150. Its very inexpensive and no dye lot. I think its perfect for winter hats. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri";"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">ROZ’S WINTER HAT WITH WOVEN TRIM</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">MACHINE:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>LK 150 Mid Gauge<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">YARN: Red Heart Soft Baby Steps, #4 Worsted Acrylic (no dye lot)</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Tension:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>5</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Fits 21 inch woman’s head snug</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Gauge:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>5 sts per
inch, 7.5 rows per inch (using 2 LK cast on combs with weights or a metal rod*
inserted in hem and 3 weights)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">DIRECTIONS:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">E-wrap cast on 90 stitches, every other needle, <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(needles 45 – 45) hang cast on comb and
weights</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Knit across and bring out of work needles into work.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">RC 0<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Knit 60 rows</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Hang hem on every other needle using the beginning cast
on loops.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I used a metal rod to hold the
folded work down as I bring the cast on comb up to put the loops on my needles.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Leave the metal rod in the hem as a weight..<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If
you prefer to use your cast on combs, return them to the bottom.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Turn row counter back to 0</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Knit 8 rows and turn work (knit side facing you)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Knit 2 rows plain</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Weave a contrast color yarn over and under every other
stitch across then knit the weaving row and 1 more row (2 rows knitted)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Weave on the opposite every other stitch over and under the
needles and knit the weaving row and 1 more row (2 rows knitted).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">AT THIS POINT, IF YOU WANT MORE WOVEN ROWS, GO AHEAD AND
DO THEM BUT KNIT A ROW IN BETWEEN EACH WOVEN ROW.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">You can knit plain now or continue weaving but remember weaving won't stretch as well as plain knitting. I liked 4 rows of weaving which looks like a hat band but its up to you. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">After weaving, knit 2 rows plain.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Turn work (purl side facing you)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Continue knitting to row 35 then turn work again (knit
side facing)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">TUCK ROWS:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Bring forward every 4<sup><span style="font-size: x-small;">th</span></sup> needle to D position
and set Russel Levers to tuck “I”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Side
levers stay on triangle.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">K 4.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Set Russell levers back to normal <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(“II”)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>K 2 Rows.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Carefully turn work, you can
easily lose your tuck stitches here, I suggest not using a garter bar unless you are confident using it, I prefer to use a contrast color yarn and knitting at least 4 rows before turning.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(purl side now facing you again)<br />
Knit 10 rows.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Transfer every other stitch to the right, put empty
needles back to A position, <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>turn tension
to 3 and knit 2 rows.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Cut long piece of yarn (2X width of work) and take
stitches off onto the yarn with a tapestry needle.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Sew seam with the excess yarn.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Finish with a flat crocheted flower or a knitted flower with a
small pompom on top </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">I don’t normally crochet but found an easy crochet flower
that even I could make here:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><a href="http://crochet.about.com/od/easy-crochet-patterns/tp/flowers.htm"><span style="color: blue; font-family: inherit;">http://crochet.about.com/od/easy-crochet-patterns/tp/flowers.htm</span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">I found the perfect, very easy, tiny pompom directions
using a table fork here:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><a href="http://vividplease.blogspot.com/2012/01/diy-how-to-make-tiny-pom-poms-with-fork.html"><span style="color: blue; font-family: inherit;">http://vividplease.blogspot.com/2012/01/diy-how-to-make-tiny-pom-poms-with-fork.html</span></a></div>
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*I have 3 metal rods that i think came with the Incredible Sweater Machine. You can buy metal rods at a hardware store. I suggest since you have to have them cut you get one that fits across half your machine bed and another one that fits all the way across. My 3 are all 21 inches long and weigh 7 1/2 ounces each. .</div>
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Copyright: Rosalind Porter, 2012. </div>
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Feel free to make these hats and sell them if you wish but don't sell the pattern. </div>
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Rozhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00623839828688286746noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5468664136311508862.post-82422726221196241862012-10-14T21:27:00.002-04:002015-02-03T14:20:20.270-05:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eEX2j9LQo1U/UHtkjJLcf0I/AAAAAAAABZA/9RS3vGWBj8Y/s1600/biscuit1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eEX2j9LQo1U/UHtkjJLcf0I/AAAAAAAABZA/9RS3vGWBj8Y/s1600/biscuit1.jpg" /></a></div>
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Here's Biscuit walking at the park in his new Lion Brand Amazing sweater. The sweater picture I uploaded few days ago is made out of the same yarn so I put buttons on mine to match Biscuit's. So much fun, I can't wait for it to warm up enough to walk without a jacket so I can wear my sweater when he wears his. Everyone admired him the day he wore his. <br />
Below is a picture of mine and his together. I almost wish I had put cables on mine, his cables are so pretty. To be honest, the picture of him in the park shows the colors the best, it was taken outside, the other 2 pictures were taken inside and the lighting is NOT good! Oh well, you get the idea. <br />
The buttons were made out of ash twigs, directions are on this blog. <br />
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Rozhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00623839828688286746noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5468664136311508862.post-36140044726492168262012-10-09T06:55:00.000-04:002015-06-25T16:16:45.751-04:00Visiting the Grand Rapids Area Machine Knitters ClubTomorrow I'm going down to visit with the GRAMKC at the Kentwood (MI) Senior Center. On the agenda is ‘HAT SEW UP DAY” for the Kniting for Christmas Giving program. I'll take my needle and help sew!<br />
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Its always fun to visit with other machine knitters. I had such a good time last month when I went down to help celebrate their anniversary. It was a Members Only workshop with show and tell and lots of teaching. I met up with friends I haven't seen since the last time I went down for a seminar. <br />
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Definitely I'm going to go down more often now that I know how to get there, its a 2 1/2 hr drive down but worth it to be around machine knitters, we talk the same language. Unfortunately winter is coming here in Northern Michigan which means I won't always get to go down, I don't like to chance a snow storm although generally the roads are pretty clear on the highways. Still, I'm a bit leary planning trips until the day of--to make sure I'll be able to make it home. Funny, I always drove about 30 miles to work and home again when I lived in the U.P. There were time when I could only get home by following the car in front of me because the wind used to blow snow across the road at fever pitch up there. I'm hoping this year will be like last year, not much snow! <br />
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Will take pictures of (hopefully) a mountain of hats tomorrow and put them up. If you are a machine knitter living in Michigan, come visit the group, they meet on the 2nd Wednesday of every month. If your coming tomorrow, bring a needle and help sew!<br />
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You can visit the Group's web page at <a href="http://www.gramkc.com/">www.gramkc.com</a>. They meet on Wednesdays at 355 48th St, SE Kentwood, MI Easy to find and fun to visit. <br />
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Rozhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00623839828688286746noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5468664136311508862.post-90634869241958265902012-09-09T13:06:00.002-04:002015-02-03T14:20:20.295-05:00Shawl Collar Pullover<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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This is my latest endeavor. I've decided that since I lost quite a bit of weight (which is still ongoing) I had to give away all the clothes that don't fit and buy new. That was fun but now Fall and fast approaching and Winter will be here soon and I need clothes. I have some blue jeans I bought, my favorite brand was on sale last month and I bought 3 pair that "almost" fit then and do now...Yaaay! Anyway, for the last 3 years I've worn sweatshirts. They are comfy and easy to throw in in the morning but gee wizz, I had 4 sweatshirts that I was either washing or wearing every day and I decided to keep the smaller ones for those days I really just needed to throw something on and give away the bigger sloppy ones and make myself some sweaters that fit. The shawl collar is the first of those sweaters that fit. </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bRXJ6vmZXQs/UEzMERMelXI/AAAAAAAABX8/kOKvVMWd3w8/s1600/roses.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bRXJ6vmZXQs/UEzMERMelXI/AAAAAAAABX8/kOKvVMWd3w8/s1600/roses.jpg" /></a>The yarn is Lion Brand's Amazing, color is Roses.</div>
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Bright Magenta, deep fuchsia, and dark wine red</div>
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It was knitted on my LK 150 mid gauge machine. </div>
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I've put a picture above that shows the "real" color of the yarn, my picture comes out with a wierd color. Its amazing yarn, so it has an appropriate name. Its labeled as 4 (medium weight) by the Yarn Council measurements which is a bit heavy for the LK 150 but I've found you can't always go by that number. I think the reason this knitted so nicely on my LK was because the yarn is softly spun and gives as it stretched. In fact if you aren't careful, it will pull apart as you're sewing up the side seams. That's OK but I was a little worried about pilling with this softly spun yarn. What I've found though is that if you knit it a little tighter it might not pill as easily as if you knitted it loosely. So...I made 2 tension swatches. I used tension 5.5 and tension 5. I ended up not being able to tell a lot of difference in the look and feel but went with 5 because it knitted easily enough, wasn't any strain on the carriage and still felt soft. My gauge ended up 19.2 sts by 29.7 rows over 4 inches.</div>
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The pattern is a Lion Brand Freebie, its called Modern Lodge Pullover and you can find it at the Lion Brand web site if you search for patterns. Of course, my gauge didn't match their gauge so I had to rechart the sweater. I used their schematics for most of the sweater but wanted my sweater longer than theirs and the sleeves a little longer. I made a bit of a mistake in the neck, my front neck opening isn't as wide as theirs but its OK although I have changed the pattern in my charting software to make it wider. </div>
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I used Knitware for my charting software because I love the set in sleeve in Knitware. Other than that and the length, I made my sweater the same as theirs although I didn't check to see how many inches their ribbing was, etc. The sweater fits so well that I have gone in and changed a few things and resaved it with a different name for my next project which is a round neck pullover out of Diamante on the standard gauge machine. I love knitting software and that's why...once you have something you like, make a couple changes and you have another one you like. </div>
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One thing I had to do with this sweater just because I was using the LK 150 was the ribbing. I did the sweaters ribbing by hand manipulating a 2x2 rib but the sweater front and back took forever to do that so when I got to the neck ribbing I used my knitting needles. They called for a size 6 so that's what I used as well. I picked up the back neck stitches just as they said to do in their pattern and I knitted my 2x2 ribbing for a row, then increased 8 stitches and knitted back, 8 more and knitted and repeated these 2 rows 6 more times. Then I measure it around the neck of my sweater and decided to do 8 more each side and then changed to size 8 needles and continued knitting till it was the correct width which wasn't that many more rows since my neck wasn't all that wide at the bottom (their directions said to continue until it fit the opening then sew to the bottom neck, lapping right over left). Well, obviously I didn't have that much more to go. Anyway, the neck ribbing was going to be difficult to do on the LK I thought and it would break my back sitting there doing it, plus I wouldn't be able to measure as I knitted so HKing the ribbing was the answer.</div>
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Love the finished sweater, now I'm waiting for a cool day to wear it but don't want to say that out loud, I really don't want Fall to arrive this quickly.</div>
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Rozhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00623839828688286746noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5468664136311508862.post-26198393253668153122012-08-25T21:14:00.000-04:002015-02-03T14:20:20.222-05:00Another Vest Knitted<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Xxr9ACqkIO4/UDltR105vpI/AAAAAAAABWw/MT2i0Jgg45w/s1600/Lynn's+Vest.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Xxr9ACqkIO4/UDltR105vpI/AAAAAAAABWw/MT2i0Jgg45w/s320/Lynn's+Vest.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
A friend of mine came in one day with a pretty vest that I absolutely loved. The vest was knitted with squares divided by reverse stockinette and hand manipulated stitches. Some of the squares had a hand manipulated stitch in it and some were blank. I asked if I could borrow her vest so that I could make a diagram of the details and that's exactly what I did but I ended up changing it a bit because hers was obviously knit on an industrial fine gauge machine and I wanted to make mine on my Brother 970. That meant that I couldn't do as much hand manipulation as her vest had but that didn't stop me. <br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-J0QkZdJuZQo/UDlwQjVaaWI/AAAAAAAABXA/v6YkzBWmE20/s1600/stitch+pattern.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-J0QkZdJuZQo/UDlwQjVaaWI/AAAAAAAABXA/v6YkzBWmE20/s320/stitch+pattern.jpg" width="210" /></a>I went to my computer and brought up DesignaKnit (DAK) and brought up a built-in shape for a waistcoat (vest). I changed it around a bit in Original Pattern Drafting and then after picking out my yarn from my stash, I made a swatch. I chose Panama as my yarn and plugged the measurements of my swatch into DAK. Once I had the shapes the way I wanted them I went into Stitch Designer and brought up a new pattern with the number of stitches and rows one of my front pieces was going to require. Then I started drawing my hand manipulated stitches. I used 2 colors, the background was of course, my Panama and the contrast color became my hand manipulation.. <br />
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Next When I thought I had it the way I wanted it, I integrated my front pieces into the Stitch Pattern section of DAK and lined it all up the way I thought it would look best. Then I went to integrated knit from screen and proceeded to knit the 2 fronts. To the right is what my stitch pattern looked like before I integrated it with a shape.<br />
Once I liked the way I had it set up I went into Knit From Screen and proceeded to knit the 2 fronts. DAK's Knit From Screen is great, every row I knew exactly what to do as far as hand manipulation and what to do when I shaped the front V neck and armholes. Below is a shot of my computer screen showing a sectionI was knitting and at the top right, the whole front piece. The numbers at the top are telling me that I needed to cast on L 43 and R 44 on my needle bed and I had knitted 18 rows and was now going to knit row 19. You can see the hand manipulated stitches and below them the needles I needed to do them on. <br />
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This vest could have been done without DesignaKnit but honestly, I tried drawing it out on paper and after working with paper and pencil all day I told myself...why am I doing this when I have DAK and can just draw the pattern on it and put the shape over it and knit! Why did I buy DAK if I'm not going to use it for what it does so well? <br />
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The nice thing is, I have the pattern saved now in my computer and can easily change the gauge if I want to make it again with a different yarn, maybe on a different gauge machine. I think I'd have to integrate the shape with the stitch pattern though to make sure the pattern is going to work with a different yarn, I was thinking I might like it done with a sports weight yarn on the LK 150 machine. <br />
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My friend's vest has flowers embroidered on the blank squares. I'm seriously thinking of finding a lightweight embroidery design, maybe something like an outline of a flower and doing that on my blank squares. I have some solar active embroidery thread and I think it would be fun to use it for the flowers, there's about 5 different colors of thread so each flower would be a different color when I step out in the sun and be white when I'm inside. Wouldn't that be fun? Well...if I do that I'm going to try it on a swatch first to make sure it looks like I would want it to look. <br />
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If you have DesignaKnit, give hand manipulated stitches a try with yours. Let me know how it worked for you.<br />
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<br />Rozhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00623839828688286746noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5468664136311508862.post-12026682430633861492012-06-14T11:35:00.003-04:002015-02-03T14:20:20.212-05:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zJLxV7GN_no/T9oDF0QiSlI/AAAAAAAABWU/oC3JRoKfvDo/s1600/vest.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="309" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zJLxV7GN_no/T9oDF0QiSlI/AAAAAAAABWU/oC3JRoKfvDo/s320/vest.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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A couple years ago my son and his wife gave me a vest which I dearly love. It fits great and its cream color goes with just about anything I wear. I get compliments on it whenever I wear it. So, I was looking over my stash of yarn (which wasn't dwindling) and my eyes lit on a yarn that I've had for quite a while. Every time I looked at the yarn I would think...I need to weave something with this yarn. Its a French Boucle mill end. (Unknown fiber but probably rayon and acrylic).</div>
So I got out my Brother 970 standard gauge and dusted it off. I looked in Stitch World II book and found a pattern that I liked and gave it a try with my yarn. OHMYGOSH! I loved the swatch I made with it so immediately decided to make a vest just like the much-loved one the kids gave me. I got out DesignaKnit 7 which I haven't really used since I bought the upgrade and pretty much copied everything about the one I loved into DAK's Shapes, I measured the neck width, front neck drop, back neck drop, height of collar, armhole measurements, etc. I had it copied in DAK Shapes right down to a "T". Then I started knitting. I had a picture in my head of exactly what I wanted to do with it. I wanted rolled trim instead of ribs and weaving throughout the entire body of the vest. Here's a picture of the vest and the notes I made for myself as I knitted--and often took out and knitted again, until I had it exactly the way I wanted it. I took pages of notes as I knitted (for once in my life). After the vest was finished I wrote down all my notes into a pattern for myself. The shape is saved in DAK so that now whenever I want to make another vest I have the shape file handy.<br />
If you'd like to make one like it, I suggest you do as I did, get a fabric vest out of your closet, one that you love how it fits and using the directions below, chart out and knitweave yourself a vest. Keep in mind that its knitweave which means it will not have the give a stockinette piece will have, add enough ease that you can wear something under this (which is why I suggest you measure a woven article rather than a knitted article for your vest measurements).<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="color: black; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri;"><strong>Roz's Knitwoven vest</strong></span><span style="color: black; font-family: "Tahoma","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="color: black; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri;">Yarn Diamante</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="color: black; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri;">Weaving Yarn, French Boucle Mill End</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="color: black; font-size: 12pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri;">Knitted on the Brother 970 standard gauge machine</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "Tahoma","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "Tahoma","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Knitweave pattern is Brother
Stitch Pattern 388 in Brother Stitch World III modified to eliminate the first
and last rows which made an ugly stripe when repeated vertically.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’ve put the pattern as knitted below.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">RC 00<span style="color: black; font-family: "Tahoma","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="color: black; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri;">Cast on and knit waste yarn and ravel cord (or hang cast on
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="color: black; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri;">With garment yarn K 15 rows stockinette tension 6 for hem. *</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "Tahoma","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="color: black; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri;">RC 00</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "Tahoma","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="color: black; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri;">On row 15 set up machine for pattern, this will knit another plain
row and ready the needles for weaving the next row. </span><span style="color: black; font-family: "Tahoma","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="color: black; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri;">Continue knitting in weaving pattern. Latch tool bind off back
neck to create a firm neck edge that won't stretch out of shape because the
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="color: black; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri;">Knit back and 2 fronts. Then Hang shoulders on machine, right
sides facing each other and latch tool bind off tightly so that there's no
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="color: black; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri;">Armhole and center front Facing: Hang armhole with knit side
facing centering the seam at 0 and making sure you have the same number of
needles on each side of 0. K 1 row garment tension then transfer every other
needle to ribber. Set tension 2 whole numbers less than garment tension—and rib
3 rows. Transfer stitches back to main bed and knit 15 rows stockinette. Latch
tool bind off loosely.</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "Tahoma","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="color: black; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri;">To make neck band, hang entire neck on the machine wrong side
facing you, centering it on the machine at center back. K 1 row at garment
tension then transfer to ribber. Rib 40 rows 2 numbers less than garment
tension. Transfer rib stitches to main bed and cut yarn 3X the width of neck stitches
thread your rib transfer needle (tappet tool) and take each stitch off on the
yarn making sure you are lining up your stitches as you go across. You’ll be
taking off the open stitch and a bit of the yarn where you joined to start the
neckband. Don’t let it gather by pulling it too tight. (This is a Joyce
Schneider neck finish and I have always thought it made the neatest finish
possible.</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "Tahoma","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="color: black; font-size: 12pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri;">Lay the piece on the table and mark your garment at the hem every
2 inches or so with a little piece of contrast color yarn, Then hand stitch the
hem matching each stitch with its cast on edge so that your hem lays straight,
this takes time but makes the hem lay perfect. </span><span style="color: black; font-family: "Tahoma","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-size: 12pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">*I wonder if it wouldn't be easier to mark that last hem row before
starting the weaving since its right there on the needle bed and easier to
follow the stitch up. You'd just have to be careful not to weave the marking thread
in with the weaving yarn not to weave the marking thread in with the weaving
yarn.</span></span><br />
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<span style="color: black; font-size: 12pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Zipper was pinned and basted with contrast thread to make sure it hung straight and then hand sewn. After I sewed it I sewed a backstitch seam (by hand) on the woven edge of the zipper rather than sewing it on the sewing machine. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="color: black; font-size: 12pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri;">Modified Stitch World III # 388 from Brother 970 machine:</span></span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UCvdrG-7DxA/T9n8Y_DSBUI/AAAAAAAABV0/ekXhTp5jjog/s1600/388a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UCvdrG-7DxA/T9n8Y_DSBUI/AAAAAAAABV0/ekXhTp5jjog/s320/388a.jpg" width="254" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="color: black; font-size: 12pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri;"></span><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;"><o:p>Copyright Rosalind Porter, June 2012</o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;"><o:p>Please feel free to use the directions above but do not copy and sell the pattern as yours. Copyright remains with designer.</o:p></span></span></div>
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Rozhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00623839828688286746noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5468664136311508862.post-40804739936472302682012-04-10T17:12:00.000-04:002015-02-03T14:20:20.234-05:00Short Row Table Runner<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pJZTKTqonzs/T4SfOVAxBvI/AAAAAAAABVc/nKljZS7tK-k/s1600/runner.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pJZTKTqonzs/T4SfOVAxBvI/AAAAAAAABVc/nKljZS7tK-k/s320/runner.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wpeQKGQJkQo/T4SfT7NWJEI/AAAAAAAABVk/XVnQNQ12s1Q/s1600/table+runner.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wpeQKGQJkQo/T4SfT7NWJEI/AAAAAAAABVk/XVnQNQ12s1Q/s320/table+runner.jpg" width="320" /></a>Marg Coe posted a table runner on the Knittingmachines Yahoo Group and I couldn't stand it. I worked with several different yarns until I got one that knitted decently and made myself one. I had a time trying to figure out what Marg had done for some reason but finally figured it out. Mine is different from hers I think but basicaly its the same technique. I used Savannah II 100% mercerized perle cotton from the UK. Love the yarn and I wish I had tons more. <br />
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This technique is described in John Allen's book called The Machine Knitting Book, originally published in 1985 and republished in 1987. I got it from Amazon a couple weeks ago and love the book, I can't believe I didn't already have it in my collection.<br />
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The technique is also shown on Diana Sullivan's UTube video: <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=le-ecDD70EE">http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=le-ecDD70EE</a> She calls it Fern Lace. She knits it on a bulky machine. Since its hand manipulated lace you can knit it on any machine, even the USM. Rozhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00623839828688286746noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5468664136311508862.post-38039250336244040182011-10-01T09:50:00.000-04:002015-02-03T14:20:20.231-05:00Embellish Your Knits with Duplicate Stitch<div style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Sometimes you don't want to do a big fairisle design and sometimes you might want to add a little something to your fairisle design. Or maybe you have a special picture you want to add to your knit but you don't want to go to the trouble to program it into the machine. Well, in those times, Duplicate Stitch may be your answer. Its easy. Look at the diagrams below and read the directions, easy peasy!</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><ol start="1" type="1"><li class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;">Bring the needle up through the point of the beginning stitch and insert it behind the point of the stitch above it. <o:p></o:p></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;">Put the needle down through the beginning point and bring it up through the point of the next stitch. <o:p></o:p></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;">Pull the thread through and insert the needle behind the point of the next stitch on the row above. <o:p></o:p></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;">To begin the next row insert the needle into the base of the stitch directly above the last stitch made. <o:p></o:p></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;">It is easier to do this row if the garment is turned 180 degrees. Duplicate this stitch as you did on the previous row. <o:p></o:p></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;">To complete the first stitch on this row, your needle is inserted behind threads that have already been stitched. <o:p></o:p></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;">Work from right to left starting at the lower right. (opposite for left handed peole). The graphics are placed on the page in the manner in which you will be stitching. The numbers here coorespond to the numbers next to the graphics. <o:p></o:p></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;">We've found for best results, use DMC threads. Presoak the darker colors in white vinegar and water, allow to dry. <o:p></o:p></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;">On a standard (7 sts, 10 in) garment, 6 strands of DMC work great. Before you start, separate the 6 strands and then put them back together, this makes them stitch fuller. Krenik metallic threads work great also. (We haven't tried the new DMC Metallic Floss yet)<o:p></o:p></li>
</ol><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uSFzrUE4c-c/TocZh5nEIEI/AAAAAAAABTk/Lm4xpXXbyFQ/s1600/dup+stitch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uSFzrUE4c-c/TocZh5nEIEI/AAAAAAAABTk/Lm4xpXXbyFQ/s320/dup+stitch.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><b>HINTS FOR DUPLICATE STITCHING</b><b><span style="font-size: 10pt;"> </span></b><o:p></o:p><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><ol start="1" type="1"><li class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;">Use cotton embroidery floss for your next duplicate stitch design, you'll be thrilled with the results. <o:p></o:p></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;">To make the floss fuller, separate the 6 strands, wet your index finger and thumb and run down the single strands. Then put the 6 strands back together again. This will make them fuller and the wet finger method will keep them from twisting.<span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"> </span><o:p></o:p></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;">Make sure you have room in the designated area of the sweater to actually duplicate stitch your design. In other words, make sure there are enough stitches and rows.<span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"> </span><o:p></o:p></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;">If you want to use a cross stitch pattern on your sweater, remember that cross stitch is square, knitted stitches aren't.<b> </b>To get the graph correct it's best to use knitters graph paper. Any variation in knitting gauge will change the picture but not too much if you stick to a standard gauge machine sweater but be sure to rechart again if you want to work with a bulky sweater. <o:p></o:p></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;">Before starting make absolutely sure your cotton floss doesn't run. To make sure, soak the floss in white vinegar and cold water and then rinse, rinse, rinse, rinse in cold water.<span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"> </span><o:p></o:p></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;">Make sure you have enough thread to complete the picture. Floss comes in dye lots just like yarn. I once had to start completely over because of this little omission.<span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"> </span><o:p></o:p></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;">Don't stick to just duplicate stitch. You can use French knots, running stitch, beads, buttons and charms to further enhance your sweater. You can even design a motif around charms or buttons. <o:p></o:p></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;">If you are going to make your own sweater, try making it textured but leave the section where you want the duplicate stitch plain. For instance a purl lattice design surrounding a blank section would look great combined with a flowered embroidery design. If you don't have a machine that will do textures, try using baby cables (1 x 1 twisted cables). Try separating the textured area and embroidery area with garter stitch, using the garter stitch as a border.<span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"> </span><o:p></o:p></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;">Try combining duplicate stitch with machine embroidery stitches. This will look OK as long as the machine embroidery design is fairly open. <o:p></o:p></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;">Don't wash and dry or steam your finished garment until AFTER you've duplicate stitched the design. Machine washing and drying acrylic yarn sets the stitches and you want the duplicate stitch to "set" with the garment.</li>
</ol><span style="font-size: 10pt;">Feel free to make copies of this page for your personal use or for use in classes. <br />
The following copyright notice must appear on all copies<br />
Copyright © Rosalind Porter, Piney Mnt., 1997</span>-1999.<o:p></o:p><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div>The information, patterns and images contained on this page are for personal use and may not be altered, converted nor uploaded to any electronic system or BBS nor included in any compact disk (CD-ROM) or collection of any type <o:p></o:p><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div>Rozhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00623839828688286746noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5468664136311508862.post-85519075683272268062011-09-27T06:54:00.000-04:002015-02-03T14:20:20.277-05:00Ideas for my quiltLast Saturday I had the extreme pleasure of attending a quilt show here in Traverse City, the best part of it was, it was right up the road from me. I don't usually go to quilt shows because I really don't need a new hobby but everyone knows I've been working sporadically on a crazy quilt using my embroidery machine. So--I have 11 squares finished and am wondering how I'm going to put them together. I thought maybe I'd find a few crazy quilts at the show and I didn't find a lot but found a couple and got other ideas from other quilts that I found. I also shopped till I thought my feet were going to fall off and of course, bought some fabric to add to my stash and the niftyest (is that a word?) flower arrangement made with buttons that I just had to get. Here's a few pictures of what I found and unfortunately I ran out of room on the SD card so couldn't get a lot, doggone it. I thought I had deleted everything on the card but unfortunately....so oh well.... This is a panel I bought that features Laurel Burch (my most favorite artist of all times). Its a Christmas panel and all I have to do is add some quilt batting to the back, quilt around the edges of the pictures and add a backing. I might even embellish some of the designs in the pictures.<br />
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Below is the button bouquet. I have lots of buttons my husband made for me that aren't quite finished, I'm seriously thinking of finishing them and making my button bouquet with some of them and of course, adding some of my button collection to them as well. Now its time for me to go visit some vintage shop for some vintage button. Doggone it, I gave away my huge collection when I moved :-(. I bought the florist wire stems from one of the quilt dealers at the show and she says you can get them at any florist shop (you probably knew that, right?) If you look close you can see she sometimes has one button on top of another button, fabulous idea to decorate any room but mine is going into my sewing room. <br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-m9CXnqMKtBE/ToGizixAAtI/AAAAAAAABTY/KfF5WYiCaBM/s1600/button+bouquet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="295" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-m9CXnqMKtBE/ToGizixAAtI/AAAAAAAABTY/KfF5WYiCaBM/s400/button+bouquet.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AO0rDEOZ8DI/ToGhr49_reI/AAAAAAAABTQ/3Lawjont9ZM/s1600/close+up+crazy+quilt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="210" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AO0rDEOZ8DI/ToGhr49_reI/AAAAAAAABTQ/3Lawjont9ZM/s320/close+up+crazy+quilt.jpg" style="cursor: move;" unselectable="on" width="320" /></a> A crazy quilt below. To the right of it is a close up that hopefully will give you an idea of how she finished the edges.<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5UuTWQpbTuI/ToGebCEba0I/AAAAAAAABTE/3cehruECpmo/s1600/crazy+quilt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5UuTWQpbTuI/ToGebCEba0I/AAAAAAAABTE/3cehruECpmo/s400/crazy+quilt.jpg" width="278" /></a> <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-waDN9_EYN80/ToGhTtTpz-I/AAAAAAAABTM/ahphEZaehyQ/s1600/denim+with+fuzzy+seams+on+top.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="181" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-waDN9_EYN80/ToGhTtTpz-I/AAAAAAAABTM/ahphEZaehyQ/s320/denim+with+fuzzy+seams+on+top.jpg" width="320" /></a>Above is a denim quilt, using squares of old denim jeans. My Daughter-in-law has made a couple like this and I took the picture for her because this person embroidered designs in every square. What a lot of work but what a fantastic quilt for teens (or anyone).</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-A5ahZYWlIyE/ToGgSv-T-5I/AAAAAAAABTI/oLuYJptJyzY/s1600/another+crazy+quilt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="283" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-A5ahZYWlIyE/ToGgSv-T-5I/AAAAAAAABTI/oLuYJptJyzY/s320/another+crazy+quilt.jpg" width="320" /></a> To the right is another crazy quilt, this lady calls it Globe Trotting and has fabrics that are taken from places they've visited throughout their lives. Sort of the same Idea I'm doing, I'm personalizing some of my squares with embroidery designs that are part of my life such as knitting needles, design of a cute white dog, spinning wheel, etc, so I loved that idea and I think the way she finished it is how I'm going to finish mine, with strips of fabric between. Love the globe in the middle, I might have to do something like that.<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CDSuI3ZbRkY/ToGdPXLqxYI/AAAAAAAABS8/s8vRlYneL4Q/s1600/SDC12402.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CDSuI3ZbRkY/ToGdPXLqxYI/AAAAAAAABS8/s8vRlYneL4Q/s320/SDC12402.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Laurel Burch Christmas panel I bought, I plan on backing it with quilt batting and sewing around the squares and maybe around some of the designs to emulate a quilt and then add a backing to it. </div>
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Below, beautiful goose sitting in a basket, all hand sewn</div>
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of course. I want to make one, it reminds me of the cement goose I used to knit clothes for, </div>
Goosie Porter I used to call her. It irritated some people on the knittingmachines group so I had to shut up about her :-(. If I make one like this I think I'll use outdoor canvas for the fabric so she can sit out on my porch in the summer. Of course I COULD knit her a hooded jacket for winter, right?<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zq3A6-_Jv6M/ToGiXL71sdI/AAAAAAAABTU/nS8HkUBCQxw/s1600/hand+made+goose.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="247" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zq3A6-_Jv6M/ToGiXL71sdI/AAAAAAAABTU/nS8HkUBCQxw/s320/hand+made+goose.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-s-PjOKXGTYM/ToGnWMn-0kI/AAAAAAAABTc/WuWxfslhs7E/s1600/quilt+squares+with+borders+around+squares.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="251" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-s-PjOKXGTYM/ToGnWMn-0kI/AAAAAAAABTc/WuWxfslhs7E/s320/quilt+squares+with+borders+around+squares.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Above is a bunch of quilted squares with a border around each one. I took a picture of this because I liked the idea of different colored fabrics surrounding each square. Obviously I need all the ideas I can get to finish mine and this is a good one since my squares are all different colors as well. <br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LOMJP6W68FQ/ToGo8CUkvUI/AAAAAAAABTg/P4sKmJZBQ9E/s1600/SDC12357.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LOMJP6W68FQ/ToGo8CUkvUI/AAAAAAAABTg/P4sKmJZBQ9E/s320/SDC12357.JPG" width="320" /></a>If you haven't seen my 11 finished Crazy Quilt squares, you can go to <a href="http://flickr.com/rozporter">http://flickr.com/rozporter</a> to see what I've completed. Of course I have a lot more to go and lots more ideas, I'm thinking I'll hang my quilt behind the head of my bed when its finished because my dog loves to lay on my bed and play on it, I can't allow that after all this sewing, now can I? Here's one of the latest that I made with a white doggie design. My dog, Biscuit almost always lays on his back when he sleeps so I had to use this design for my "Biscuit" square.</div>
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Just in case you think I've quit knitting, think again. My knitting room is moving to the master bedroom and master bedroom is moving to smaller spare room but first the master room needs to be painted so I can't knit till I get things re-arranged but I am HKing every evening while I watch TV. After all, I can't quit knitting, its too much of a habit for me.</div>
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Rozhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00623839828688286746noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5468664136311508862.post-85665462087725537512011-08-03T15:07:00.000-04:002015-02-03T14:20:20.280-05:00Fixing Windows Live Email's annoying problemI just bought 2 Win 7 computers and both have Windows Live as the default email client. The problem I've had with both computers and this software was, every time I type an apostrophe or quote symbol I got wierd symbols in their place. I found a fix for the new desktop but when I got my laptop, I couldn't find the fix again. Finally today I persisted in my search until I did find the fix. If anyone reading this blog has the same problem, I thought I'd save you the search....here's the fix:<br />
<br />
This seems to be a problem for people using Windows Live for their email client with Win 7: <br />
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Here's the fix if anyone else has the problem and wants to eliminate it forever. <br />
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[4] At HKCU\Software\Microsoft\Windows Live Mail\Compose\Preferences\PostEditor\Autoreplace, set the data for SmartQuotes to 0 (thanks as usual to Peter.R for the fix).<br />
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If you're not used to editing the registry, it's best to be very careful so you don't wreck something. Start by setting a restore point:<br />
<br />
<a href="wlmailhtml:{44BA2655-696C-4F15-8F09-684070B06EE3}mid://00000070/!x-usc:http://windows.microsoft.com/en-US/windows7/Create-a-restore-point">http://windows.microsoft.com/en-US/windows7/Create-a-restore-point</a><br />
<br />
Then:<br />
1. With WLMail closed, type regedit into the start search box and press Enter. Give permission where necessary. <br />
2. In the left hand pane, navigate to<br />
HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\Windows Live Mail\Compose\Preferences\PostEditor\ Autoreplace<br />
and click on Autoreplace. <br />
3. In the right-hand pane, double-click on each of the four Names where the Type column reads REG_DWORD. In each case, type 0 into the Value data box and click OK. Press F5 and then close the window. <br />
4. Launch WLMail and test. <br />
It worked for me, TG I found this, it was driving me crazy!!!Rozhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00623839828688286746noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5468664136311508862.post-47583675770370047272011-07-25T16:10:00.000-04:002017-07-25T08:36:41.404-04:00Making Buttons for your Knits<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1zQ6bNtpDZM/Ti3NGjEYLPI/AAAAAAAABS4/EnlRV18h56w/s1600/button.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1zQ6bNtpDZM/Ti3NGjEYLPI/AAAAAAAABS4/EnlRV18h56w/s1600/button.jpg" /></a><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KKrXuO54ovc/WXc3oOXuYiI/AAAAAAAACh4/NL9KUUlX5iUdC2NsP7q_W4EPsjdEid2HgCLcBGAs/s1600/buttons.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KKrXuO54ovc/WXc3oOXuYiI/AAAAAAAACh4/NL9KUUlX5iUdC2NsP7q_W4EPsjdEid2HgCLcBGAs/s320/buttons.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<b>Slice up your own dried tree branches. If you take a branch off the tree, let it dry before you make buttons. Here in South Carolina, I find them in my woody backyard. They are as easy to slice as a piece of lunch meat. </b><br />
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<b>You can actually slice up a whole branch in no time and they don't all have to be the same width or length, as you can see, some of mine have little knots on the side which I love.</b><br />
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<b>My DH liked the ones with no bark but I loved the ones with bark so we did both. </b></div>
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After you slice them drill 2 or 4 small holes and lightly sand. </div>
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Soak them overnight in a (clean) margarine tub filled with satin polyurethane or shiny polyurethane (makes 2 very different looks). I like to leave the pins in the holes so they won't get filled with polyurethane.<br />
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Next sand both sides lightly again. <br />
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Once sanded pin them to a box, a pizza delivery box with sides intact is perfect, then go outside and spray the side facing with satin or shiny poly and let them sit outside overnight. I purchased some steel straight pins (you remember, the kind we learned to sew with? Because you'll be spraying the pins as well as the buttons, the pins are pretty much ready to throw away after you're finished with them. Don't worry a box of pins are inexpensive compared to the price of hand made wooden buttons. I left them in the house to dry since I live in a humid climate winter and summer. <br />
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Next day turn them and spray them again. Another light sand, another spray , let dry, spray other side, let dry and they're done. So you've sanded them 3 times and sprayed them twice.<br />
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After the first test one was done I sewed one to a swatch and machine washed and dried it 5 times that day while I was doing laundry. The test one came out just like new so I knew we had a winner. I've had my wooden buttons on a best loved cardigan ever since we made the first button back in the 80's. The buttons look good as new although the sweater could use a replacement. I always take them off the garment when I toss it so I have never run out of buttons.<br />
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<div>
When you sew them on, don't necessarily look at the dimension, try it in your buttonhole, it depends on width as well as thickness and the little knots on the sides, whether or not it will go through the hole so your sweater may have 5 different size buttons. <br />
</div>
<div>
BTW, after you have finished spraying them with the poly, you can get some acrylic paint and a small paint brush and paint flowers or toys or whatever you want on them, spray that after its dry and you have a button that will match any theme and they look very different from the plain ones. </div>
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The picture above is just one of my buttons. We tried several different kinds of tree limbs and each one looked different. I think it was ash that gave us a larger lighter color. We also used maple and cedar. Cedar were my favorites.</div>
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<br />
Try a branch, I'll bet you love them. </div>
</b><br />Rozhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00623839828688286746noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5468664136311508862.post-86154577148174050052011-07-11T09:12:00.003-04:002015-02-03T14:20:20.282-05:00New Garden Flag<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mxDgBhQ6FnI/Thr0kAUSvOI/AAAAAAAABSw/mHu5oF6G8hk/s1600/tweet+flag.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mxDgBhQ6FnI/Thr0kAUSvOI/AAAAAAAABSw/mHu5oF6G8hk/s320/tweet+flag.jpg" width="217" /></a>Its been a while since I've sewn anything but I decided I needed to make a garden flag for the next Holiday, Labor Day. I checked my files for the Tweets (birds in a tree doing Holiday things) from Embroidery Library.com but there wasn't a Labor Day Tweet. Oh well, I found one called "What I'll Be When I Grow Up" and thought, perfect, it shows workers, a fireman, astronaut, pop singer, cowboy...and I added Biscuit at the bottom, wearing a fireman's hat. Well, when I got it finished I liked it so much I didn't want to wait till Labor Day week to put it out so I put Happy Day at at the top instead of Happy Labor Day and put it out.<br />
I made this one a little different from the others I've done. I like the sterling chain at the bottom to hold the flag down in the wind so made a little casing at the bottom. I did a rolled hem on the sides instead of sewing a doubled hem and I like how it looks. I made the top casing wider so that I didn't have trouble threading it onto the flag holder which is a royal pain. Then I tried to iron a fusible stabilizer to the back because the flag fabric is fairly thin and really needs more than the medium weight tearaway I have always used. Also I didn't like the idea of a wash-away stabilizer because I didn't want to have to soak it when it was done but next time I hope I remember, the fusible stabilizer doesn't fuse to the flag fabric well. You can't use a lot of heat on these things because hot heat will melt the fabric so I couldn't get it hot enough to fuse. Doggone it. I ended up leaving it half-way fused and hooped the tearaway, sprayed the fusible with sticky stuff to hold it to the hooped tearaway. When I got done I had to cut the fusible out around the design in the back. Pain in the neck but it looks ok so that's all that matters. <br />
The casing that holds the chain is a good idea, it holds down better than the chain I put on the last one (which I just tacked on when the flag was done). So in all, I like this flag, every one I make teaches me something new. The additional stabilizer was a good idea, maybe next time I'll use Badgemaster which is a washaway and I'll soak it when finished. Obviously its the easiest way to go.<br />
BTW, the flag looks a little wacky, the wind was blowing just a bit when I took the picture, hence the crooked sides. Really, its straight.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gQDWaHvCy-o/Thr2gbNpH6I/AAAAAAAABS0/kVpCP31i7D0/s1600/Retro+Ribbed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gQDWaHvCy-o/Thr2gbNpH6I/AAAAAAAABS0/kVpCP31i7D0/s320/Retro+Ribbed.jpg" width="188" /></a>Next project---I'm making another pair of socks once again trying the Interweave sock book called Favorite Socks, I'm learning with this project too, it calls for 5 double pointed needles, 4 in the circle and 1 to knit with. I'm making Retro Ribbed Socks, one of the first in the book. I had a heck of a time casting on with 4 needles but did manage to get started last night while I watched Housewives of New Jersey. Since its raining and humid out today I may just sit under the ceiling fan and knit all day. This project requires a little concentration until I memorize the pattern.Rozhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00623839828688286746noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5468664136311508862.post-84915505562426877232011-06-20T13:03:00.000-04:002015-02-03T14:20:20.274-05:00EZs Surprise Baby Jacket<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oIumMxTt7P8/Tf98fDvhLMI/AAAAAAAABSo/9lfwdlJtn-I/s1600/BSJ.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" i$="true" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oIumMxTt7P8/Tf98fDvhLMI/AAAAAAAABSo/9lfwdlJtn-I/s320/BSJ.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xjrTsyd7P6E/Tf98j7zT6tI/AAAAAAAABSs/JKdLDCPdJ8Q/s1600/bsj+back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" i$="true" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xjrTsyd7P6E/Tf98j7zT6tI/AAAAAAAABSs/JKdLDCPdJ8Q/s320/bsj+back.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Note: This sweater and blog post was done in Sept 08. I knitted it for a contest my MK guild was sponsoring at the time, we were all supposed to make a BJS. Only a few of us did it but it was a challenge I was pretty proud of. I came across the pictures the other day, not sure why I didn't put them up when I knitted the sweater but anyway, here they are now, June 2011.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div>Well, I finally sat down and knitted this sweater and it took me as long to figure out what went where as it did to knit it. I decided to just knit per the pattern as written (<a href="http://www.junebugsplace.com/">http://www.junebugsplace.com/</a>) and disregard my tension swatch because I just wasn't sure what went where. I striped it randomly just to see where the strips would go and they sure didn't turn out where I thought they would <a href="http://www.sweetim.com/s.asp?im=gen&ref=10" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://content.sweetim.com/sim/cpie/emoticons/0002006E.gif" /></a><br />
I also couldn't figure out where to put cables and honestly, after looking at my finished product, I still don't know where to put cables so that they end up as hearts. OH well! I've now decided that with all the ends left with the stripes, I'm going to make a plain blue sweater and trim it with the other 2 colors somehow (to be determined when done). <br />
<div><div><div></div><br />
<div>Now that I've got this made with all the different stripe patterns I can at least figure out where I did what. The back turns out to be the biggest piece you knit between the shortrows. The shortrows become the sleeve backs at the cuffs and bottom front of the sweater. Its easy to figure out where the center front neck is, you have decreases there and they HAVE to be the front neck. When you look at my pictures, remember, I have packed my pins and so rather than pin it out, I threaded knitting needles through the edges so that I could see what I was doing and hopefully you can too. The green bit, by the way, is the beginning waste yarn. I ewrap cast on over it. (& that's the beginning of my knitting).<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_uLW1XSG2Izc/SMg8UbPxOZI/AAAAAAAAAeI/-FI3iMHQws0/s1600-h/just+finished.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5244508087681890706" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_uLW1XSG2Izc/SMg8UbPxOZI/AAAAAAAAAeI/-FI3iMHQws0/s200/just+finished.jpg" style="cursor: hand; float: left; margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px;" /></a> Here's the piece as it comes off the machine, the bottom is where I cast on<br />
<br />
<br />
</div><div>.</div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_uLW1XSG2Izc/SMg8qdtYtII/AAAAAAAAAeQ/E0BOkxi_hQM/s1600-h/back.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5244508466300105858" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_uLW1XSG2Izc/SMg8qdtYtII/AAAAAAAAAeQ/E0BOkxi_hQM/s200/back.jpg" style="cursor: hand; float: left; margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px;" /></a><br />
<br />
<div>here's the back. As you can see, its the center section between the short rows.<br />
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<br />
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_uLW1XSG2Izc/SMg86BKygfI/AAAAAAAAAeY/eQIMYNBT1ck/s1600-h/front.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5244508733516710386" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_uLW1XSG2Izc/SMg86BKygfI/AAAAAAAAAeY/eQIMYNBT1ck/s200/front.jpg" style="cursor: hand; float: left; margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px;" /></a><br />
<br />
Front, & yes, my stripes don't match up because I didn't try to make them match, I had no idea what part I was knitting when I made them. But I'm glad I did that because now I know, the right front is the beginning edge I knitted and the left front is the ending part. The short rows are at the front sides and theback sleeves at the cuff sections. Wierd? How in the world did EZ figure this out.??</div><a href="http://www.sweetim.com/s.asp?im=gen&ref=12" target="_blank"></a></div></div>Rozhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00623839828688286746noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5468664136311508862.post-91829988243768048332011-05-28T08:49:00.001-04:002015-02-03T14:20:20.298-05:00Memorial Day<strong>Memorial Day, originally called Decoration Day, is a day of remembrance for those who have died in our nation's service.</strong> There are many stories as to its actual beginnings, with over two dozen cities and towns laying claim to being the birthplace of Memorial Day. There is also evidence that organized women's groups in the South were decorating graves before the end of the Civil War: a hymn published in 1867, "Kneel Where Our Loves are Sleeping" by Nella L. Sweet carried the dedication "To The Ladies of the South who are Decorating the Graves of the Confederate Dead" (Source: Duke University's <a href="http://memory.loc.gov/ammem/award97/ncdhtml/hasmhome.html">Historic American Sheet Music, 1850-1920</a>). While Waterloo N.Y. was officially declared the birthplace of Memorial Day by President Lyndon Johnson in May 1966, it's difficult to prove conclusively the origins of the day. It is more likely that it had many separate beginnings; each of those towns and every planned or spontaneous gathering of people to honor the war dead in the 1860's tapped into the general human need to honor our dead, each contributed honorably to the growing movement that culminated in Gen Logan giving his official proclamation in 1868. It is not important who was the very first, what is important is that Memorial Day was established. Memorial Day is not about division. It is about reconciliation; it is about coming together to honor those who gave their all. (copied from Wikipedia)<br />
<br />
When I was growing up I remember my dad always had a big flower garden in the field next door to us. He would pick big bouquets and we'd all go to the cemetery to put flowers on my grandparents graves. We didn't give a lot of thought to the Military who died because honestly, we didn't have any that I know of that gave their lives while in Service. My dad was around 18 yrs old when he was a soldier in WWI but I have no idea and don't remember him ever talking about it. All I have is a very old picture of him in his uniform taken someplace in the U.S.<br />
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Meanwhile, my husband was a 21 yr veteran of the USAF. He loved the Air Force and believe it or not, in spite of all the moving we did, I loved it too. He passed away in 2007 and was buried in a brand new VA cemetery in Anderson,SC. Nowadays, naturally, I do think of the Veterans and those who gave their lives for us. My husband didn't but he could easily have since he went in the AF before the official end of the Korean War and served during the Vietnam war. Lucky for our family, during the Vietnam War time, he was sent to Biloxi, Mississippi to teach those who were going to Vietnam and managed to stay in the States during the entire war. Still, he always felt guilty for not going even though I always felt like someone had to train the young troops here in the States and maybe he was one of those who kept them safe while there. <br />
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This weekend I hope everyone takes a few moments from the big Department Store Sales, the picnics, the beach, and just say a little prayer for the people who are serving and those who lost their liveswhile serving in the Military and lets not forget the people who are suffering from the terrible weather we've had the past couple weeks.<br />
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Howard Porter, taken just before being shipped overseas in 1960<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-raD2eI6FzN4/TeDtL2KsNoI/AAAAAAAABSY/TVZFPCO97-c/s1600/daddy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-raD2eI6FzN4/TeDtL2KsNoI/AAAAAAAABSY/TVZFPCO97-c/s320/daddy.jpg" t8="true" width="104" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: center;">Veterans Cemetery; Anderson, SC where my husband rests<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-N_FBCVmqwCo/TeDtU6z6V_I/AAAAAAAABSc/I7CH2BKB5lM/s1600/gate.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-N_FBCVmqwCo/TeDtU6z6V_I/AAAAAAAABSc/I7CH2BKB5lM/s1600/gate.jpg" t8="true" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YBjQl3XC2G4/TeDtc8djWVI/AAAAAAAABSg/kAUFDNmtQ5A/s1600/closeup_of_flags.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="260" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YBjQl3XC2G4/TeDtc8djWVI/AAAAAAAABSg/kAUFDNmtQ5A/s320/closeup_of_flags.jpg" t8="true" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1rg-1BidSBU/TeDuHYpRQBI/AAAAAAAABSk/Ob3ErmKyNd4/s1600/tornado.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1rg-1BidSBU/TeDuHYpRQBI/AAAAAAAABSk/Ob3ErmKyNd4/s1600/tornado.jpg" t8="true" /></a>Tornado picture courtesy of Wikipedia</div>Rozhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00623839828688286746noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5468664136311508862.post-81080574899471879582011-04-19T07:45:00.003-04:002015-02-03T14:20:20.256-05:00New Guest Room and Wall Hanging<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-W32kJ6dGHRY/Ta1zbU6VqOI/AAAAAAAABQs/-pck9wDpmsY/s1600/spare+room.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-W32kJ6dGHRY/Ta1zbU6VqOI/AAAAAAAABQs/-pck9wDpmsY/s320/spare+room.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-j1qy8TBU7Dw/Ta1yu6dGcEI/AAAAAAAABQk/5A1JYtSrPVU/s1600/Spring+Wallhanging.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="148" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-j1qy8TBU7Dw/Ta1yu6dGcEI/AAAAAAAABQk/5A1JYtSrPVU/s200/Spring+Wallhanging.jpg" width="200" /></a>I finished my guest room (which WAS my knitting room) and a wall hanging to hang in it, just in time for a visit from my daughter who lives in Tacoma. Yaaay! Got the wall hanging done just before I went to airport to pick her up. Here's a picture of the hanging<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4xKu6UqYJYw/Ta1zQ5ls5SI/AAAAAAAABQo/d0-xP3jrlJw/s1600/spare+room2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br />
</a></div>The room turned out nice I thought. I went to the local Comfort Center and bought a futon and the guy threw in a "better" mattress for it than the cheapie that was on it. I love it. Naturally, the color meant I needed to sew the wall hanging onto a red background. Here's the finished room with the hanging and a second picture to show a little more of the room. The lady who lived here before me had a carpenter husband and grandson and apparently they built the nice inset with shelves beside the window. Its perfect for some of my knickknacks, which include a couple of the bunnies that prompted me to knit the bunny that I posted the pattern for in my last post. Lucky enough, one of the bunnies is wearing a red plaid dress so she goes with the room :-)<br />
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I can still put my knitting machine back in that room, its legs are on sliders so its easy to slide to different rooms, it is presently in MY bedroom but I don't like it there because I tend to put clothes and "things" on it and even though its covered, that's not a good practice. Besides, my bedroom isn't as bright as this room and I don't have a lot of company so its a better place all around for my knitting machine.<br />
<br />
I learned a lot with the wall hanging, mostly about stabilizers, I used some of my fabric stash because I had a lot of the blue cotton that I sewed the squares on. The cotton was fairly thin and I used a medium tearaway on it but should have either used 2 layers of the tearaway or better yet, a fusible. Reason: The pattern shifted on a couple of the squares. Actually, one of the squares came out larger than the others and didn't quite fit...naturally it was a center square so I had to do a lot of fudging. If I had more fabric I would have done that square over but already had to do 2 over again so ran out of fabric. Lesson learned! But in the end it turned out ok and I like where its living although originally I was going to hang it out on my front porch. NO WAY! It has to live in the guest/knitting room.Rozhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00623839828688286746noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5468664136311508862.post-70252073291980133252011-04-04T15:09:00.002-04:002015-02-03T14:20:20.252-05:00Easter Bunnies<div class="separator" style="border: currentColor; clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Wtu9ia7B_Ws/TZoWNeCtCrI/AAAAAAAABQc/1k9BTwO7whc/s1600/bunnie.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" r6="true" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Wtu9ia7B_Ws/TZoWNeCtCrI/AAAAAAAABQc/1k9BTwO7whc/s320/bunnie.gif" width="320" /></a><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9z9EQ4eVo8c/TZoWPs9ygiI/AAAAAAAABQg/3ubUVO8y5oo/s1600/bunny2.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" r6="true" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9z9EQ4eVo8c/TZoWPs9ygiI/AAAAAAAABQg/3ubUVO8y5oo/s1600/bunny2.gif" /></a></div><div style="border: currentColor;">Yes, its time to knit for Easter and what's Easter without a couple bunnies on your shelf? </div><div style="border: currentColor;"></div><br />
<div style="border: currentColor;">These bunnies were not my original creation (so to speak) I received a couple made out of fabric by one of my school buddies. Hers had dresses that are like bean bags. I decided they would be fun to knit. The one with the red plaid dress was made by a Compuserve member back when I wrote the original pattern. (does that tell you how long ago this pattern was written?)</div><div style="border: currentColor;"><br />
</div><div style="border: currentColor;"><strong>Bunny Pattern</strong></div><div style="border: currentColor;">Materials: MC--any color for dress </div><div style="border: currentColor;">CC--any desired for dress trim</div><div style="border: currentColor;">Baby pink for bunny head, hands and feet </div>Use any yarn that is similar to Trenzi, Trenzado or Solo<br />
Small amount of polyester stuffing<br />
Machine: Any standard gauge.<br />
Tension: Tension 6 on any Brother or Knitking standard machine. This should be knitted tight<br />
Dress: C/O 90 sts with waste yarn and knit a few rows. K 1 row ravel cord.<br />
RC000: With MC knit 36 rows. Weigh well. *Pull every 5th stitch to holding position.<br />
Carriage on hold, with CC work 4 rows. Break CC. Turn carriage off Hold.<br />
With MC K 1 row.*<br />
Repeat from * to * 1 time.<br />
If desired, pick out any small fairisle pattern and place here. (tiny flowers look good).<br />
Knit to row 80. Take off on waste yarn.<br />
<br />
Head: Rehang on 60 needles, wrong side facing thus: 1 st, 2 sts, 1 st, 2 sts, across. <br />
Now rehang the cast on edge as above, 1 st, 2 sts, 1 st, etc as above.<br />
RC 000. With pink K 30 rows. Transfer every other stitch to needle on right. Leave empty needles out of work. K 1 row. Cut thread 3 X the width of work. (use this to take off with double eye needle). Gather top of head and sew seam with the mattress stitch. Stuff head tightly and run thread through neck to gather neck closed. <br />
<br />
Ears: Make 1: C/O 14 sts with waste and work a few rows. Work 1 row with ravel cord.<br />
With pink K 80 rows. Break thread about 1 1/2 x the width of work and take sts off on double eyed needle. Gather just the end and secure and cut thread. Take open cast on sts off on beginning thread, gather, secure and cut. Tie a knot in the middle of ear fabric and sew the knot to the top of the head. Embroider mouth and eyes.<br />
<br />
Arms: Make 1. C/O 14 sts in waste yarn and K 1 row with Ravel Cord as above. RC 000 Knit 90 rows. Take off as you did ears. Tie knot in the middle and secure each end to the side--more to the back than front. About half-way between neck and bottom of skirt so the knot sits in the middle front, not loosely, not tightly, knot is the hands.<br />
<br />
Legs: Make 2. C/O 14 sts with waste and ravel cord as above. K 50 rows. Take off as above but sew seam for about 1". Stuff lightly for foot and gather at ankle (at top of 1" seam). Tie knot between ankle and top, closer to top (knees). Gather up open sts at cast-on and secure under dress in front. Sit bunny on the edge of a shelf or chair with her legs hanging down. <br />
<div style="border: currentColor;"><br />
</div><div style="border: currentColor;">Variation #1:</div><div style="border: currentColor;"><br />
</div><div style="border: currentColor;">You can put a tuft of orange yarn up through the knot in her hands and she'll look like she is eating a carrot (variation thanks to a Prodigy member).</div><div style="border: currentColor;"><br />
</div><div style="border: currentColor;">Variation #2:</div><div style="border: currentColor;"><br />
</div><div style="border: currentColor;">When making the ears, arms and legs, rather than casting on with scrap and ravel cord, use the pink yarn and the Weaving cast on. Then when you want to gather the ends, just pull the weaving thread and it is all gathered! (variation thanks to a Compuserve member). </div><div style="border: currentColor;"><br />
</div><div style="border: currentColor;">Variation #3 </div><div style="border: currentColor;"><br />
</div><div style="border: currentColor;">Here's a DAK enhancement by a new Compuserve membere:" I've made 3 bunnies and using Dak I put (what else?) bunnies on the dress. After reading a discussion of using the lace carriage to transfer stitches for reducing , I did the reductions for the bunny with the lace carriage. I just added a few extra lines to the Dak pattern for the needle selection for the lace carriage. (I was knitting from screen-color pattern only, and I turned it off for the plain parts and turned it on for the tuck, the fairisle, and (now) the transfer of stitches). On</div><div style="border: currentColor;">Bunny #3, I started the tuck pattern at R 32, hung the hem at R 72 (this was much faster for me than hanging it when you rehang after the decreasing), transferred stitches for the decrease at R 76. Then put the empty needles out of work, and threaded a separate piece of doubled yarn over and under the pairs of needles left in work. With the weaving brushes engaged, k one row. This installs the drawstring to gather the neck. Then scrap off and rehang the live stitches on 60 needles, knit the pink for 30 rows for the head, then transfer every other stitch, knit 1 row, take off and gather. "</div><div style="border: currentColor;"><br />
</div><div style="border: currentColor;"><br />
</div><div style="border: currentColor;"><br />
</div>Rozhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00623839828688286746noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5468664136311508862.post-68231822053957912782011-03-20T10:30:00.001-04:002015-02-03T14:20:20.246-05:00Stained Glass EmbroideryI've been working on and off on this stained glass embroidered wall hanging since the day I first bought them (I think the first day they came out. You can see the whole set at <a href="http://www.emblibrary.com/EL/new.aspx?date=030911">http://www.emblibrary.com/EL/new.aspx?date=030911</a> . I plan on getting a piece of upholstery fabric for the backing. Emblibrary has excellent directions for making this, I have them all printed out and following them to the "T". I am making some of the colors different than theirs but then that's the fun of machine embroidery.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-LGMCrG_dlyg/TYYJvJL-U-I/AAAAAAAABQY/F4yBEXp0fJc/s1600/stained+glass+embroidery.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-LGMCrG_dlyg/TYYJvJL-U-I/AAAAAAAABQY/F4yBEXp0fJc/s320/stained+glass+embroidery.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>These are pretty and its fun to put the pieces together and see them match up. I haven't ever done anything like this before. As you can see, so far I have the first row completed. I finished the center piece of the second row last night but my embroidery machine messed up just a little when the bobbin thread decided it didn't want to work and the whole design shifted just a little. I can fix it and will before I start the adjoining pieces. Phooey, I know better, the machine doesn't like it when I leave it even just long enough to put the dog out and get a drink of water. That's what I get, the machine needs me. :-)Rozhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00623839828688286746noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5468664136311508862.post-69071132767381671202011-03-17T12:45:00.002-04:002015-02-03T14:20:20.249-05:00New Multidirectional Scarf<div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">I knitted a multidirectional scarf in November (2009) and loved it but gave it to a friend. So I found some hand dyed yarn in my stash of yarn as I was trying to clean out the closets, etc...and decided to make myself one. I love the scarf. The other one was pictured in another blog note here: <a href="http://rozspot.blogspot.com/2009/11/multi-directional-scarf.html">http://rozspot.blogspot.com/2009/11/multi-directional-scarf.html</a></div><div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-FYo6mS8VAMo/TYI6h3fg01I/AAAAAAAABQU/OCgt2WjZi1c/s1600/multidirectional+scarf.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" r6="true" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-FYo6mS8VAMo/TYI6h3fg01I/AAAAAAAABQU/OCgt2WjZi1c/s320/multidirectional+scarf.jpg" width="253" /></a></div>Rozhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00623839828688286746noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5468664136311508862.post-4913312988241787312011-03-13T10:04:00.001-04:002015-02-03T14:20:20.243-05:00Saving Gas (worth a try)I've been filling up when my gas tank is at 3/4 to 1/2 full thinking if prices go up today at least I'll save a couple pennies and won't have to totally fill up. I've also been driving slower, taking off from a full stop much slower and trying to combine trips. But, this was sent to me this morning and son of a gun, I'm going to give it a try as well. <br />
TIPS ON PUMPING GAS<br />
<br />
I don't know what you guys are paying for gasoline.... but here in California we are paying up to $3.75 to $4.10 per gallon. My line of work is in petroleum for about 31 years now, so here are some tricks to get more of your money's worth for every gallon: <br />
<br />
Here at the Kinder Morgan Pipeline where I work in San Jose , CA we deliver about 4 million gallons in a 24-hour period thru the pipeline.. One day is diesel the next day is jet fuel, and gasoline, regular and premium grades. We have 34-storage tanks here with a total capacity of 16,800,000 gallons. <br />
<br />
Only buy or fill up your car or truck in the early morning when the ground temperature is still cold.Remember that all service stations have their storage tanks buried below ground. The colder the ground the more dense the gasoline, when it gets warmer gasoline expands, so buying in the afternoon or in the evening....your gallon is not exactly a gallon. In the petroleum business, the specific gravity and the temperature of the gasoline, diesel and jet fuel, ethanol and other petroleum products plays an important role.<br />
<br />
A 1-degree rise in temperature is a big deal for this business. But the service stations do not have temperature compensation at the pumps. <br />
<br />
When you're filling up do not squeeze the trigger of the nozzle to a fast mode If you look you will see that the trigger has three (3) stages: low, middle, and high. You should be pumping on low mode, thereby minimizing the vapors that are created while you are pumping. All hoses at the pump have a vapor return. If you are pumping on the fast rate, some of the liquid that goes to your tank becomes vapor. Those vapors are being sucked up and back into the underground storage tank so you're getting less worth for your money. <br />
<br />
One of the most important tips is to fill up when your gas tank is HALF FULL. The reason for this is the more gas you have in your tank the less air occupying its empty space. Gasoline evaporates faster than you can imagine. Gasoline storage tanks have an internal floating roof. This roof serves as zero clearance between the gas and the atmosphere, so it minimizes the evaporation. Unlike service stations, here where I work, every truck that we load is temperature compensated so that every gallon is actually the exact amount. <br />
<br />
Another reminder, if there is a gasoline truck pumping into the storage tanks when you stop to buy gas, DO NOT fill up; most likely the gasoline is being stirred up as the gas is being delivered, and you might pick up some of the dirt that normally settles on the bottom. <br />
<br />
<br />
Its 10 a.m. /Roz is on my way to fill up, my tank is 3/4 full....will I save? Good Grief, I hope so!Rozhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00623839828688286746noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5468664136311508862.post-87112912994428489652011-02-24T05:28:00.000-05:002015-02-03T14:20:20.286-05:00Beaded Bags On The LK 150The larger bag was made to go inside my hand knitting bag; it will hold accessories like clippers, tape measure, tapestry needle, stitch markers, etc. The cell phone bag was made to fit a Razr 3M phone. <br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HHqEMTLrvcg/TWYr-IBh5NI/AAAAAAAABPk/J1Z-OS9x_4E/s1600/beaded+bags.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" j6="true" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HHqEMTLrvcg/TWYr-IBh5NI/AAAAAAAABPk/J1Z-OS9x_4E/s400/beaded+bags.jpg" width="347" /></a></div><br />
<br />
Materials: <br />
1) 1 skein (4 ozs) Down Home Art Yarns Sock yarn, Turquoise Fade. from www.knitivity.com My larger bag final measurement is 5” X 8”. Cell phone bag took final measurement is 4 ½” X 2 ¼”.<br />
2) Fabric for lining (cell phone bag isn’t lined)<br />
3) 7 inch zipper<br />
4) Button for cell phone bag<br />
5) Crochet hook <br />
6) Beads: Beaded Treasures 6/0 Czech Glass Beads from Hobby Lobby, it took 4 vials and I had beads left over. If you just make the larger bag, you will only need 3 vials.<br />
1 package Oral B Superfloss for beading unless you have a bead tool that fits through the beads.<br />
<br />
Machine: LK 150 mid gauge machine<br />
Tension: Carriage was set at the lowest possible tension (R) antenna was set at 1.<br />
<br />
Gauge: 11.4 rows per inch, 5.7 stitches per inch but gauge isn’t really all that important unless you know exactly how big you want your little bag to be. <br />
<br />
Machine Knit Technique: The bags were knitted and woven with the skein of yarn I bought from knitivity.com. I chose to weave it because I thought it needed to be thicker and I didn’t think I’d have enough yarn to double it for a heavy stockinette. Weaving takes very little yarn and I actually ended up with <br />
2 ounces left after I made the 2 bags. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2e20OZtOqnw/TWYtQyz0X7I/AAAAAAAABPo/wv_u-TCtaPY/s1600/woven+bag.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="203" j6="true" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2e20OZtOqnw/TWYtQyz0X7I/AAAAAAAABPo/wv_u-TCtaPY/s320/woven+bag.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Picture above shows the woven side of the weaving<br />
<br />
I did want the stockinette side to be the right side though so although I like the woven side, it will be hidden by a lining. <br />
<br />
<strong>Stitch Pattern</strong>: Knit weave 2 rows, place a bead on every other stitch every 3rd row alternating the stitches where the beads will be placed. By always starting your beading from the carriage side of the work, you can start with stitch 4 each side stitch 2 and your beads will be alternated every 3rd row. Also because you have 44 stitches on the needle bed you can start weaving each side with a yarn over so you won’t get lost trying to figure out if you’re supposed to do a yarn over or a yarn under, its hard to tell when you’re using the same yarn for knitting and weaving. <br />
<br />
Wind your yarn into a ball and then put it on an ounce scale. Wind half off into another ball. Knit the first side and switch balls for the second side.<br />
<br />
I have a bead tool and the beads I wanted to use didn’t fit on it.<br />
Thanks to zackDS@comcast.net for the following directions: <br />
“I use Oral B Superfloss. Use the smooth stiff part like a needle and thread as many beads as needed for each row. Tie a knot below the fluffy part so the beads won’t fall off although the fluffy part usually holds them on.” <br />
(NOTE: I tied the floss in a bow knot below the fluffy part so that the beads wouldn’t fall off the other end (just in case).<br />
<br />
<strong>Directions</strong>:<br />
<br />
With waste yarn cast on 44 stitches and knit a few rows, knit 1 row with ravel cord<br />
Ewrap cast on over the ravel cord with your main yarn. <br />
<br />
Knit one row over the cast on row (carriage on L)—we won’t count this row.<br />
<br />
Row 1: Carriage on L, begin weaving starting with needle 1, over, needle 2 under--over and under, over and under (1x1 weave). ) you’ll end with a yarn under at the end of each row and start each row with a yarn over. Knit across, carriage ends on the R.<br />
Row 2: Knit weave this row end with carriage on L.<br />
Row 3: Load 20 beads onto your floss and begin on the carriage side (L) start with stitch 4 and put a bead on every other stitch ending with 2 empty stitches remaining on the R. <br />
Weave your yarn across the bed and then knit across the row slowly. Don’t force the carriage.<br />
<br />
Row 4 and 5, knitweave<br />
Row 6: bead across starting with the 4th stitch on carriage side. <br />
<br />
Continue weaving putting beads on alternate stitches as above on row 6, 9, 12, 15, 18, etc as above to row 51, continue weaving-only to row 55.<br />
<br />
<strong>Finishing:</strong><br />
<br />
When finished, pin the 2 pieces out on a blocking board and steam to set stitches. Crab Stitch the 2 top sides of your purse before installing zipper. Hand baste the zipper into the 2 top pieces. Once it’s basted by hand, take to sewing machine and sew zipper in, be careful not to sew through your crab stitches.<br />
<br />
Now measure and cut out your lining fabric in 1 piece, folded at the bottom. <br />
Mattress stitch the 2 sides of your knitted purse together and turn inside out to sew bottom and weave your ends in. Insert the lining and hand stitch the top to the zipper facing, hiding your zipper stitches if you want. Don't you love how my lining happens to match the yarn? Its Laurel Burch fabric, I bought in a quilt kit when visiting in Tacoma, WA. Never will make the quilt I'm having too much fun with the fabric pieces.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-t5UOf_zPdCA/TWYuw08wOaI/AAAAAAAABPs/Zp9eHaONg4I/s1600/lining.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="162" j6="true" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-t5UOf_zPdCA/TWYuw08wOaI/AAAAAAAABPs/Zp9eHaONg4I/s320/lining.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<strong>Cell Phone Holder</strong><br />
Yarn Used, ½ ounce <br />
Technique, knit weave on LK 150 as above<br />
Cell phone bag isn’t lined because I made it snug so it would stretch a little wider to fit phone.<br />
<br />
Cast on 16 stitches with waste yarn and ravel cord (as above)<br />
Knit 1 row plan and start knit weaving and beading as above beading on row 3, 6, 9, 12, etc. Continue to row 108. Stop beading and knit weave 2 more rows. (end RC 110).<br />
<br />
Pin your piece out on a blocking mat and steam to set stitches. <br />
Fold piece over your cell phone and determine where you’ll want the bottom to fold. Sew up the sides using that measurement. Crab stitch around the entire top of the bag. Sew button on and crochet a chain buttonhole to fit button. (I found a mother-of-pearl button that looks so great with the beads).<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6bTALaMf_W0/TWYvewX9imI/AAAAAAAABPw/kMjwdtit4f0/s1600/cell+phone+holder.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="293" j6="true" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6bTALaMf_W0/TWYvewX9imI/AAAAAAAABPw/kMjwdtit4f0/s320/cell+phone+holder.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<strong>BONUS BAG</strong><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2-leCAzmBzM/TWYwruaemxI/AAAAAAAABP0/1LhTUB5p4Dw/s1600/bonus+bag.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="176" j6="true" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2-leCAzmBzM/TWYwruaemxI/AAAAAAAABP0/1LhTUB5p4Dw/s320/bonus+bag.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>Since I had yarn and beads left over after the first 2 bags I decided I’d make an iPod bag that would hang around my neck when I walk. I wanted the iPod along with its case in the bag because I feel like it’s a likely thing to get broken without its case. The iPod in its case measures 6 ¼” around its width and is 5” long. I decided to decorate it with beads rather than knit beads in every 3rd row and it’s infinitely faster that way. <br />
<br />
<strong>DIRECTIONS</strong><br />
<br />
Cast on with waste yarn 16 stitches and knit a few rows. Knit 1 row with ravel cord. <br />
With main yarn knit 1 row and then begin weaving as we did with the other 2 bags. Knit and weave 115 rows. Cut your weaving yarn and latch tool bind off with the main yarn. Crochet a crab stitch around the top. <br />
<br />
Double the yarn and knit a 3 stitch ICord (knit 1 way, slip the other way). I’m sorry I didn’t count how many rows of ICord I knitted, I knitted until it was 30 inches long. I attached it to the 2 sides of the bag. <br />
<br />
<strong>POCKET</strong> I decided to make a pocket for the ear buds because they are always in the bottom of my purse or pocket, all mixed up with pens, comb, etc and how handy is it to have them right there in the bag with the iPod.<br />
<br />
With waste yarn cast on 12 stitches and knit a few rows. Knit 1 row with ravel cord.<br />
With main yarn and weaving yarn, knit weave 11 rows as above.<br />
ROW 12 start the diamond pattern with beads. Center 2 beads on the first row, 4 beads on the second row, 6 beads on the third row, 4 beads on the fourth row and 2 beads on the 5th row. Feel free to make your own bead pattern or omit it altogether. <br />
ROW 17 continue knit weave to row 29.<br />
Cut weaving yarn and latch tool bind off with main yarn.<br />
Sew pocket to front of bag leaving the top open. If you wish, crochet a crab stitch across the top of the pocket. Steam the bag and you’re ready to walk.<br />
<br />
By the way, I still have 1.1 ounce of yarn left over, enough for another little bag.<br />
These bags won first place in a 1 skein contest that Ray at Knitivity.com was sponsoring. Maybe they won because they were the only entry but I like to believe they won because they came out so great and I made so many things with that one skein of yarn. What did I win? Why, another skein of yarn (different color). Maybe I'll post a picture and pattern of what I made with that skein some day...........<br />
ps. apologize for the quality of the pictures, I had to scan them from the original pattern and they never come out as nice as if I'd taken a new picture. <br />
<br />
Copyright © 2009, Rosalind PorterRozhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00623839828688286746noreply@blogger.com3